property

Tebbutt has just released his latest cookbook, Pub Food, a collection of elevated pub dishes – think mussels cooked in beer with crispy monkfish cheeks, and rump of Welsh lamb with spiced aubergine, mint and yoghurt – as well as a celebration of British pubs in general.

They are “one of the last melting pots there are in life”, says the chef, who also presents Food Unwrapped on Channel 4. “I will disappear on a Friday and go and do Saturday Kitchen. And then I’ll meet some quite famous faces sometimes, get back to the pub [near his home in Monmouthshire], and nobody gives a monkey’s! They really don’t care, and it’s great.

“You can be in the same place with very wealthy people and farmers, and the guy who empties the bins, all on the same level, and you’re all having a chat- there’s very few places you can do that anymore.

“Then if you throw good beer and conversation in the mix, and good food, I think they’re really special places.”

But local pubs are “having a really s*** time at the moment”, Tebbutt says. “They are struggling, the prices are going through the roof, energy costs, food costs, staffing. It’s all hindering the growth – they’re shutting by stupid numbers per week. I think it’s a real shame and it’s something worth trying to save.

“People need to remember that they’re not going to always be there. And if you’ve got a good one then go and support it.”

Tebbutt and his wife Lisa ran the Foxhunter Inn, Monmouthshire, for 14 years, where they championed sustainable, local fare – something that’s still his M.O. “In the mid Nineties [when working in London] seasonal and local weren’t really such a big thing. Then I moved out, set up my own place, and it seemed obvious because A, it’s going to be cheaper, and B, it’s going to be at its best.”

People are “much more in tune” with sustainable eating now, he notes.

Many of the recipes in the new book are influenced by the local produce of Monmouthshire and what he used to be on the pub menu. “Obviously, [there’s] a lot of lamb, a lot of mushrooms through foraging, crayfish dishes – because we get crayfish in the rivers – wild samphire, eel, black pudding,” Tebbutt says.

Eventually, he burned out running his own pub. “It was a very different sort of relentless business. We didn’t take a break – we did it for 14 years. I was juggling TV and the restaurant for quite some time, and then reached a point where I didn’t think it was sustainable, because I was knackered.

“Little country pubs, as lovely as they are, and everyone wants them on their doorstep, they’ve got to be supported because they’re bloody hard work to keep going.”

Tebbutt originally learned his trade in Michelin star kitchens in London, training under Marco Pierre White and Sally Clarke. And despite having to get up at 5am to film Saturday Kitchen, the hours are “a walk in the park” compared to life in a professional kitchen.

“When I first got into TV and you do 10-hour days or something, and you’d have people saying, ‘Are you OK?’, ‘Do you need to sit down?’, ‘Do you need a drink?’ – no, I’m fine! When you’re used to working 18-hour days in sometimes horrible conditions, everything [else] is a breeze.”

Tebbutt was first attracted to life in the kitchen after reading White Heat by Marco Pierre White when he was 16. “It just made chefs look really cool and sexy and really, really rock and roll. It was the first cookbook that had this dirty-looking, kind of rugged chef producing the most beautiful place of food.

“That juxtaposition between the sweat and the blood and tears at the back of house and the control at the front – I just kind of fell in love with it.

“Kitchens, they’re a bit like joining the army. You go in at the bottom, you keep your head down, you find your way and you slowly build yourself up. It’s brutal but you learn a lot.”

But some head chefs do take it too far. He remembers going to eat in one restaurant when he was working in London by a very famous chef at the time; “They had an open door and we saw this chef absolutely, continually tearing his kitchen staff apart. To the point where it was all heads down, they looked broken.

“And then you get the food, it looks beautiful, but you don’t want to eat it because of the misery that’s gone into it.

So now, “I don’t like the chef, I won’t eat their food.”

Matt Tebbutt’s Pub Food by Matt Tebbutt is published in hardback by Quadrille on August 29, priced £26. Photography by Chris Terry.